Big Boys, Big Toy’s – Guy Ellia Jumbo Chrono

 Say “ Big Watch” and most people instantly think about Panerai or IWC’s Big Pilot. Perhaps with a few their thoughts will go to their favorite Breitling or Omega on steroids. This can hardly be helped since these are the brands that are very much in the public eye. When a name like “Guy Ellia” drops into a conversation most people don’t even know how to hide the fact that they have never heard of this brand, let alone seen one of its watches. But, believe me, they feel right at home in the “Big Boys, Big Toys” series. 

Part of the Guy Ellia Jumbo Chrono collection

Guy Ellia is a brand to know when you are into big watches, for the simple reason that they redefine the big watch! A great example of this is the  “Jumbo Chrono”. Don’t take the word Jumbo in its name lightly because even in the world of big watches, its diameter might be shocking. 50mm of prime real estate is what this watch offers your wrist. Unwearable will probably be your first reaction, but this Guy Ellia is not like any other big watch. With most large watches, the big equals the bulky, but Guy Ellia follows a different path. The whole concept of the watch is focused on offering you as much watch as possible without compromising on the wearing comfort. This is done by keeping the watch relatively thin, with a height of only 11.5mm. This is about just as high as the regular Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph, and almost 3mm thinner then the Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph!

 

In addition, the lugs of the Jumbo Chrono are kept relatively short and positioned at a sharp downward angle. On the wrist, this means that the watch is kept secure in place without needing additional space. The crown is also recessed into the case for the most part and the operating buttons for the chronograph are kept in line of the case.

The movement of the Jumbo Chrono is based on the Frederic Piguet caliber 1185. Major change is that the hour and minute hand have been moved to a subdial at 12 o’clock, with the running seconds at its own subdial at 6 o’clock. The minute counter resides at 4 o’clock, while the hour counter takes position at 8 o’clock. Only the chronograph seconds hand has center stage and is mounted in the middle of the dial.

Dial might be a bit too much credit, because the Jumbo Chrono features a so-called “Discovery” dial. This means that large portions of the dial have been cut away so you can admire the inner works of the watch. Since the movement itself is not skeletonized this gives it a highly industrialized look while the air of mystery is still preserved.

In a way, this watch is also equipped with something that you can call a “Discovery” rotor. A ring floating above the outer edges of the movement is joined in the middle by six spokes, giving it the look of an endlessly turning wheel, under which the familiar layout of the movement is visible from the back.

Ellia’s approach to gold is also very interesting; the Jumbo Chrono is available in black, white and pink gold. Each color gives the watch a completely different look, but all have a beautiful, satin-brushed texture that transforms this watch into 50mm of understatement. Yes, it is possible!

Since Guy Ellia started his career in the diamond trade, he includes two diamond set versions as part of the Jumbo Chrono collection. But for those who prefer their carbon served in a different way, Guy Ellia created a special “Carbone” version of the Jumbo Chrono. This slightly more military styled watch (crown guards and screws that stick slightly out of the bezel) has its case crafted out of a solid piece of forged carbon, creating a lightweight watch with a very interesting and subtle texture in the case, that gives you the idea of a ton-sur-ton camouflage look.

So with the Jumbo Chrono Guy Ellia created a versatile, and even wearable, watch that pushes the boundaries of the term “BIG”. Its diameter will impress many, although only its owner will know the fact that it is secretly a “gentle giant” that might bark, but never bite. A big watch this size was never so easy to get along with, but please keep this a secret…they might throw you out of the Big Boys club just because of it!

Rousseau Exhibit at the Patek Philippe Museum

Perhaps one of the greatest thinkers of the 18th century was Jean-Jacques Rousseau, a native of Geneva. He fought for Democracy and freedom as well as personal responsibility and education. His politics and writings impacted the French Revolution and set the path for modern political thought. Ironically, he spent his life with an illiterate servant and supposedly fathered five children with her but didn’t take responsibility for any of them. Despite his personal failings, Rousseau inspired many and stands as one of the greatest influencers of the 18th century.

On the occasion of the 300th anniversary of Rousseau’s birth, the city of Geneva has arranged a celebration called “2012 Rousseau pour Tous” (Rousseau for All).

Rousseau himself was not a watchmaker but he comes from a watchmaking family spanning four generations. [Read more...]

A matter of taste; a unique Rolex Day-Date

If you have ever read the amazing stories of the “One thousand and one nights”, you are probably also familiar with Ali Baba and how he found a hidden treasure cave. Well, when you lay eyes on this unique Rolex Day-Date you will most certainly get an idea how he must felt after he spoke the magical words; “iftah ya simsim” or “Open Sesame” in plain English.

 Although until recently Rolex has always been pretty conservative when it came down their collections. Cases, bracelets and movements slowly evolved rather than changed. However, Rolex always been quite generous with different dial, bezel and bracelet options. Sometimes even special requests from distinguished collectors were granted, although these were almost exclusively gemstone set models.

 Sometimes you didn’t even need to ask Rolex, they simply made some extraordinary gem set watches of their own. Such was the case with this exceptional Day-Date that Rolex created in very limited quantities in the early 1980’s. Exceptional in this matter is not only the abundance of rubies and diamonds, but also the extreme attention to detail that Rolex practiced while making this model. Take for example the golden day and date indications on the burgundy colored background that match the overall look of the watch. Or the Rolex crown and name applied in gold on the inside of the crystal so that the diamond pavé set dial doesn’t have to be interrupted?

 But there is a problem with this Rolex. Not a huge problem, but still something that might have some people pass on this exceptional watch. The problem with this Rolex in the 21st century  is that it cannot decide whether it is a men’s or a ladies’ watch. It was definitely born as a men’s watch. Manufactured in 1982 it was simply out of the question, and most certainly out (or not yet in) style for women to wear such a large watch. But time and tastes have changed, causing this Rolex to have an identity crisis. [Read more...]

No Limits! Audemars Piguet Star Wheel

With all the dazzling watches the independents throw at us, one would almost forget how creative the old maison’s are! And what better example is there then the Audemars Piguet Star Wheel? It was in 1989 that this watch was first introduced. Back then still in a classical round case, with the time indication on the top. This proved to be the founding father of a collection which would later include the John Schaeffer Star Wheel (with minute repeater) and perhaps the most famous of them all; the Millenary Star Wheel.

The Audemars Piguet Millenary Star Wheel 125th Anniversary Limited Edition

We were fortunate enough to get an up-close-and-personal with a watch we can only refer to as the star of the Millenary Star Wheel collection: a pink gold 125 anniversary model. [Read more...]

A Special Complicated Enamel Patek Philippe Pocket Watch

You probably haven’t ever heard of a reference 864 and why is that? Because this is the only one known to exist to date. One of the characteristics that makes this timepiece so special is the movement, which is the smallest used by Patek Philippe in any watch of their post war production that combines a minute repeater, perpetual calendar and split seconds mechanism. Imagine trying to maneuver your way around a half dollar to put in three functions that add up to a grand complication. But Patek is good at that, they hold the record for thinnest split-seconds chronograph with the Ref. 7059, which we discuss here.

The movement itself is a work of art, but also on the back of the watch is another, a finely painted enamel miniature of the Mosque adjacent to the College at Wattayah, Oman. These rare Patek Philippe timepieces are, [Read more...]

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