Big Boys, Big Toys; an introduction

In case you haven’t noticed; big watches are here to stay. Once they where like SUV’s; few and far apart. But the days that you could only choose between a Land Rover, Jeep and Landcruiser are long gone. Every self respecting car brand needs an SUV in their stable, and even brands like Bentley are following suit. Why? Quite simple; because they sell. The need for SUV’s has probably something to do with the wide variety of distar movies that hit us in the late 1990’s. Its hidden message; to have even the slightest chance of survival when a meteorite the size of our sun hits earth YOU NEED AN SUV! Of course these movies often featured big men, with big watches, and in basic marketing terms that means that the little man also wants a big watch so he can feel like a big man. A trend was born!

Darling, with a SUV it just bounces off!

Just as an SUV, do also these big watches rarely have to preform the things they where actually created for. That is actually a good thing because it is very likely that most of its owners would never survive it when they did. But who cares, they look great around the wrist! This also creates the first problem; those big movie men live usually in nice (sub)tropic places where they can wear tight t-shirts to show off the big biceps they got from lifting watches….weights. But roughly half of the markets in which these big watches are being sold are most of the time too cold for this, and a big watch under a sweater looks funny….when it fits to begin with. Some rappers came up with a hole in your French cuffs, Flavor Flav wears it around his neck but the true gentlemen amongst us know that the only way to do it right is like Giovanni Agnelli did it; strap it over the shirt!

Big watches Giovanni Agnelli-style, 1975 (!)

Of course there is also another explanation for staying power of big watches. It’s the old boys network! They stuffed their pockets in the “Greed is good!” 80’s, used it to fund some internetcompanies in the early 90’s, watched a couple of those disastermovies, realized the world might come to an end early and cashed their stocks just before the internetbubble bursted. They are now retired end enjoying the good life but because of slowly deteriating eyesight the only thing they can read on their Rolex President is the date. In comes the big watch. Not only as a statement; I have a big watch watch so I have a big wallet, but also for the practical reason that it is the only way that they can actually read time before resorting to the much more exspensive solution of a minute repeaters. Besides those usually come in very classical, gold cases that makes its owner only look old. Just like the SUV has become the stylish subsitute for the practical stationwagon, big watches did the same for glasses.

 

In general big watches can be devided in roughly two sections; big aviatorswatches and big diverswatches, and in both cases you get a lot of a good thing that was never intended to wear on dry land! Big aviatorswatches where strapped around the leg of the pilot so that he only had to glance down to check the time, while his hands stay firmly on the controls of his aircraft. Big diverswatches where strapped over the wetsuit, but as soon as they got on dry land the divers quickly changed back to their private watch, in those days most likely with a diameter of 30mm.

It is all his fault!

But just as mankind was never supposed to fly, we also weren’t supposed to wear those hugue watches. In they end we got pretty good at both! Because let’s face it; big watches are just fun! They are impossible to hide, always make a statement and give you the feeling you are wearing a real watch if it was for the weight alone. Big watches are here to stay and therefor I’m starting a new series of articles about watches 44mm and over in diameter, because big boys like big toys!

 

Richard Mille’s RM56: the Watch that Shouldn’t be Worn

Richard Mille has crossed into a new frontier. Yet again. With the first release of the RM001 for his eponymous brand in 2001, Mille redefined how a watch could be considered and constructed. Drawing from the design of Formula 1 cars and aviation, he presented a timepiece with innards more resembling a car or an airplane than a traditional watch. He also threw financial caution to the wind, building one that didn’t take cost into mind. It was the artistic execution and realization of vision that drove the creation not the final price tag.

With the RM56 Mille presents another surprise and questions the industry to expand its definition. Certainly the complete sapphire construction of the case RM56  and the eyebrow raising price tag of 1.65 million bring immediate attention and focus. Though the hot topic of conversation, these are not the most interesting aspects of the watch. It’s what the construction and price tag of the watch communicate about what a watch is and can be. [Read more...]

Battle of the Watches-The Dress Watch Round 2 with Philippe Dufour : Martin Green

Few things are as effective as a surprise attack and I most certainly didn’t saw the Ralph Lauren 867 coming to counter my Louis Cartier Tank in the previous rounds of the Battle of the Watches. This esteemed designer has indeed been able to launch a top class collection where the lack in horological history might be compensated by top of the line movements and his signature designs. This is however not enough to counter the next watch I would like to bring forward in the battle to determine what is THE dress watch.

I’m talking about Philippe Dufour’s “Simplicity”. The Simplicity embodies all the qualities of a superb dress watch; discreet size (34mm for the purists or 37mm if you prefer to make a “statement” within the boundaries a gentleman sets for himself), elegant design with many details and a well balanced dial, and world class craftsmanship that is not only evident in the design of the movement but in the whole finish of the watch as well. It is also a humbling watch; even when you can afford it a hundred times over you still have to wait until it is actually made…..that is when it was available because unfortunately is the Simplicity completely sold out. One of the great things when you order your Philippe Dufour is that you get a watch that is made completely by…..Philippe Dufour. Okay, he recently joined forces with his own daughter and even hired an “assistant” who can probably assemble a complete minute repeater in the time it takes us to order a coffee, but we can’t blame the man for making sure that even future generations have a place where they can order the best dress watch ever made.

 Picture by Peter Chong
The name of the “Simplicity” is downright controversial. As “simple” as the watch may look to the untrained (or unaware) eye, so complicated it is to make. This is also to be expected from a man who made “Grande Sonnerie’s” for Audemars Piguet. Making anything less than the best dress watch in the world is simply not a challenge. The complexity of the Simplicity can be found in for example the finish of the movement. Summarized in two words it is absolute perfection!

Below a good example of "black polish"

Take for example a beautiful matted ratchet wheel where only the teeth are polished to perfection. Another example of perfection is that Dufour is one of the very few watchmakers that can and dares to apply something called “black polish” on its movements. Black polish is created when a surface is polished to such a degree of perfection that it appears black when you look at it from above. In order to accomplish this the surface must be completely free of scratches and blemishes, a daunting task.

For pure understatement you can opt for the enamel dial with painted Roman numerals, or a silver Guilloche dial that gives the watch an incredible richness. Also, the Simplicity has a seconds hand! Meehna might not find this suitable in a dress watch, but let’s be honest; we all love a nice 6-eater! Besides, even gentleman are mere mortals and a subtle reminder of the constant passing of time can be a perfect point for reflection during the day and choosing the right priorities.

A guilloche dial like no other!

All these aspects combined create a watch that is superb in every way and every detail, even the details you probably will never seen because they are hidden deep inside of the watch. So even when the mythical Louis Cartier Tank wasn’t enough to secure the title, the Philippe Dufour Simplicity will surely do so!

Martin Green immersed himself in the amazing world of watch making at a very young age, even postponing the purchase of his first car in favor of a Swiss watch. As a graduate of the Gemological Institute of America he has a specific interest in the use of diamonds and other gemstones on watches, although with his sometimes eclectic taste, the rest of the high end watch making world is definitely not lost on him. Apart from contributing to Watchmatchmaker.com Martin Green is a moderator and contributing writer for  Revolution Online

The Patek Ref. 6000G : an unexpected ‘love at first sight’

One of the things that it takes time to realise, in the crazy world of watches, is that a watch you can become enamoured with in photos can often turn out to not have the same appeal when you see it in the flesh and conversely, a watch of which you’re vaguely aware but have been ambivalent towards can suddenly grab you by the innards when you see it.

For me, an unexpected encounter with a white gold Patek Calatrava Reference 6000G-001 turned out to be one of the latter.

[Read more...]

Hamilton Ventura XXL Elvis® Anniversary: You Ain’t a Nothing But a Hound Dog

Original Electra Like Elvis Wore

Yep, the very same one Elvis sported in many photo ops has now made another bow for Basel 2012. The Hamilton Ventura is one of those unmistakable watches you can identify across the room. You gotta admit this watch exudes 1960’s swank and perfectly matches the King’s off-beat, swiveling hips style. And, at the same time somehow the watch fits into the 21st century, with its retro-futuristic look. Sony agreed. For the third installment of the Men in Black series, Will Smith and Tommy Lee Jones wear the Ventura, the original when they’re in the 1960’s and once back in 2012 they clock the time with the new version.

Hamilton presented the first electric watch in 1957, the Hamilton Electric 500, which included the asymmetric Ventura in its lineup. What might’ve looked dated in the 1980’s has now swung back to hip. Last year Hamilton reintroduced the Ventura, updating its look for a modern wearer. A bolder case size and sleek black styling (PVD over stainless steel) mark this Elvis edition Ventura for the new era along with a water resistance to 50 meters. A black, rubber strap replaces the original elastic one. This is the only Ventura that ticks off a special mechanical ETA movement made specifically for this model. The rest use quartz.

Interesting factoid: Did you know that 85% of Hamilton watches use a mechanical movement?

The Hamilton Ventura XXL Elvis® Anniversary retails for a very reasonable $1345 and you don’t even have to grab a mic and croon to the crowd. But you can if you want to.

Hamilton Ventura XXL Elvis® Anniversary

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...